I love Thanksgiving. Actually, what I should say is, I love cooking for Thanksgiving. I could take or leave the actual meal, but I always find great enjoyment in the preparation. Especially the baking.
I’ve been told that I am a good baker. This was not, however, always so. I was probably the world’s worst baker/cook when I started creating in the kitchen. Ah, 1995. My junior year of high school. One day, and I have no recollection of the impetus for his revelation, my economics teacher told us a really disgusting story about pate. I decided, at that very moment, that I was never going to eat meat again (I have since reformed back into meat eater, much to Hockey Fan’s joy, though pregnancy has definitely toned down my carnivorous tendencies the last several months, much to his chagrin).
Returning to the relevant story: I arrived home from school that fateful evening and told my mom, “I’m a vegetarian now.” Her response, which caused much teenage angst at the time, but for which I am now grateful was, “Okay. But I’m not cooking two meals, so you’re going to have to cook for yourself.” My parents took me to one of the large, chain bookstores (I grew up on the East Coast, so no Powell’s there) and let me pick out a few cookbooks. Being a snotty teenager, I picked one called “Cooking for Consciousness” and another one whose title I cannot now recall.
They were both TERRIBLE cookbooks. And I was a TERRIBLE cook. TERRIBLE.
I got a little satisfaction from the fact that my torture was also my family’s torture. It was around that time that my parents, who both worked, had me start cooking for them and for my sisters, so they had to eat the slop I was concocting just like I did.
They teased me about it. Mercilessly. For years.
Gradually, though, I learned what tasted good and what didn’t. Moving from the burbs to a big city for college (Washington DC) gave me the opportunity to sample a myriad different cuisines for cheap (and not so cheap when the rents were in town). Moving to Boston four years later gave me an even wider appreciation for food and its diversity. Sampling so much variety taught me what I liked (pretty much everything) and what I didn’t (very little). It also taught me how to combine ingredients in ways that enhanced them, rather than pounding people over the head with them, how to make the sum excellent without forcing anyone to gag over the parts. I learned a lot from Food Network too, (that’s right kids, TV can be educational) like how to use a knife properly and that it’s okay to spend hours cooking a meal that takes twenty minutes to eat, as long as you enjoy yourself while you’re doing it. I learned that macaroni and cheese does not have to come out of a box and that I too could cook Asian, Indian, and Italian food if I wanted to. I few months ago, I made Japanese seafood consume. Successfully. I learned that I wasn’t ever going to be much of an innovator, but that knowing how to look at a recipe and figure out, “that’s going to taste good,” or “that’s going to be nasty” was an equally important skill. I’ve amassed quite a collection of cookbooks since 1995.
The original two are either in storage at my parents house or in the trash. Let us hope that they are buried somewhere deep, deep down in the ground under mashed cars and dead batteries, and that the anthropologist who finds them, sifting through a landfill in upstate New York one hundred fifty years from now doesn’t think that the information contained therein is indicative of how we actually ate in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.
I still make mistakes. A lot of them. I still pick bad recipes. I still make disasters out of good ones.
I have learned the importance of the test drive.
I was watching Food Network one day (I don’t remember when and, unfortunately, I can’t remember which show) and the host imparted this sage advice: never cook anything for the first time when you’re serving it to someone else. I have ignored this advice at my peril and that of my friends and guests. I haven’t killed anyone yet, as far as I know, but I have engendered some polite declining of further helpings and some actual laughter (which I totally, totally deserved). Once, my friend Steph and I nearly blew up an oven with an apartment full of guests when we (following a recipe to the letter, I might add) poured a bottle of port wine over the Thanksgiving turkey and then closed the door, leaving the alcohol to burn off with nowhere to vent.
I have, for the most part, learned my lesson. Usually. Most of the time.
So, after the trifle that didn’t set (two years ago), the turkey that almost exploded the apartment (three years ago), the tarte tatin that collapsed because someone moved it to the bottom rack of the oven and it hit the top rack while it was baking after I had spent hours and hours and painstaking hours rolling out my own, home-made puff pastry dough (it wasn’t me), and the pumpkin-caramel cheesecake that went into the fridge too soon and required a mallet for the breaking of said caramel (this past summer) I am test driving all of this year’s Thanksgiving desserts with extreme prejudice before the big day.
Test Drive #1: Meyer-Lemon Cranberry Bundt Cake
This recipe was published in the latest issue of Food Network Magazine, one of the few pretty, glossy things that still lands in my mail box. Unfortunately, I brought said pretty glossy thing to work, accidentally left it in the staff room and was then out sick for two days and had the weekend off. By the time I returned, the magazine vultures had gotten to it and it was gone (there are two things nurses can’t resist: free food and magazines/catalogs. Do not leave either in the vicinity of one or more nurses unsupervised if you ever want to see them again). Happily, the recipe had been posted to the Food Network website. You can find it here:
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/food-network-kitchens/meyer-lemon-cranberry-bundt-cake-recipe/index.html
Successes first: I did not use the cake flour that the recipe calls for because I didn’t have any and I was too lazy to go out and get more. Usually, the type of flour one uses, especially for baking, makes a huge difference. In this case, while the cake was a little bit more dense than it would otherwise have been, the texture was just fine. I did sift the all-purpose flour that I used to aerate it a bit. Perhaps that helped.
Being a resident of the Pacific Northwest, I don’t have an immediate source of Meyer lemons. Sometimes one can find them, sometimes one cannot. I have to admit that laziness kicked in here as well, and I didn’t really look that hard. Also, I had a bag of lemons at home that I didn’t want to waste, seeing as how the previous two bags I had purchased had turned fuzzy and green before I’d gotten to them and Hockey Fan and I are trying to conserve cash for the coming of tiny Hockey Fan in December. It turned out just fine, so if you can’t find the Meyer Lemons, don’t worry.
Now comes the part where I prove the importance of the test drive. The test drives, rather in this case (there were 2). The things I learned that will keep me form crying on Thanksgiving Day. And I cry a lot more now than I used too. Hoping that stops when tiny Hockey Fan is born…
On the first test drive, I pulled my Bundt pan out of storage and discovered that it was rusty. I considered my angel food cake pan but 1) it was too big and b) I was afraid that it would leak (ironic considering what I’m about to reveal). I do, however, have several cake pans, so I figured I’d just slop the batter into one of those and park it on a rimmed cookie sheet while it baked. Might take a little longer, I thought, but I had time.
Test drive tip #1: Always put your cake pan on a rimmed cookie sheet during the baking process (your un-rimmed one will do you no good here). It took me a very long time, and several hours on my hands and knees scraping charred gook off of the heating elements in several different ovens to learn this lesson. Good thing I actually remembered on test drive day, because the cake exploded. Over the sides of the cake pan, down onto the cookie sheet, spreading all the way to the edges. The batter AND the cranberry filling.
Test drive tip #2: Use the right equipment. If the recipe calls for a Bundt pan, use a Bundt pan. I baked the cake it until the outside was pretty well done, but when I cut into it, the middle was still raw. There is no way to cook this cake in a cake pan without a hole and to have the middle cook thoroughly before the outside is carbon. If you’re going to bake, invest in one of each kind of pan. They don’t have to be fancy or expensive. I found a great, non-stick Bundt pan at Target for around $15. It’s a Wilton pan; a reputable, durable brand knowing for the excellence of it’s baking equipment, still purchased on a budget. It will last forever, provided that I dry it when I take it out of the dishwasher or wash it by hand.
Test drive tip #3 (garnered from previous test drives): Do yourself a favor and grease your pan with cooking spray instead of doing the butter/flour thing. I don’t know about your cakes, but mine always, always, always, get stuck when I use butter, no matter how much I grease and how well I flour. I either have to use a knife to pry it out, ruining the pan, or the cake comes out in pieces. When I use cooking spray, no additional grease or flour and the thing slides right out onto the cooling rack. I used to hate cooking spray. Now, I love it. Also, even if the pan you buy says “non stick,” you still need to grease it. I have learned from many a previous test drive that cakes and pastries always stick, no matter what promises your pan is making you.
Test drive tip #4: This recipe doesn’t call for sifting the confectioner’s sugar when you make the glaze, so I didn’t on test drive #1. I probably should have known to do it anyway, but the Food Network recipes are usually pretty idiot-proof, so I tend to follow them word for word, when I am baking (in the words of the immortal Paula Deen “Cooking is an art. Baking is a science.” I’ll play with dinner, but not with dessert). The test drive #1 glaze had gross, tooth-numbingly sweet blobs of confectioner’s sugar in it, which totally destroyed both the look and the taste of an already ugly cake. I hate ugly cakes that don’t taste good (if they taste good, I shrug and get a fork) and I know you do too. On test drive #2, I did sift the sugar. Much improvement.
Test drive tip #5: When the recipe author says “don’t let the cranberries touch the sides of the pan,” don’t let the cranberries touch the side of the pan. On both test drives, the cranberries made a break for it. I thought, “meh, no big deal.” The result: burned cranberries. On test drive 2, it didn’t affect the taste, but my pretty cranberry ring had brown blotches. I hate brown blotches almost as much as I hate ugly cakes that don’t taste good.
Test drive tip #6: When the recipe author recommends letting the cake sit in the syrup for 24 hours before serving, do it. Don’t get impatient and upend the thing after an hour. You’ll be glad you waited.
The test drive #2, cooking-sprayed, Bundt paned version was far more successful, despite the slightly charred fruit. It got a thumbs up from Hockey Fan and our friend Rob, who is currently staying with us. Also, it lasted almost two weeks under a cake dome, which is truly impressive for any baked good. It has passed the testing phase and will be on the Thanksgiving menu.
I didn’t know I was going to start this blog when I made the cake, so no picture on this one. I will take one when I make the cake for the big day and post it then. No matter what it looks like.
Next up: Pumpkin Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting and Chocolate Cheesecake
I’m skipping the pumpkin pie this year. No one eats it anyway.